While I didn’t get a traditional white Christmas this year, I recently returned from a 5 night trip to this small town island with white sand beaches, and I have nothing but good things to say about it. Coming from a small Oklahoma town myself, I appreciate the familiarity and friendliness that comes from living in such a place. Upon arrival, we were met by our host (Denise) at the ferry dock and guided to our rental car agency. On our short 2 block walk to the rental car agency, Denise spoke on a first name basis with 2-3 people walking down the street, as well as a couple of business owners. We knew immediately; we would like this place.
When visiting St. John, there is only one way to get there, by boat. You either travel by cruise ship, personal vessel or ferry. We flew into St. Thomas, taxied to the Red Hook ferry station (this is super easy as they have taxis running this route regularly) and ferried over on the Red Hook Ferry which runs every hour on the hour. You can purchase tickets either at the counter (cash only) or online for about $15/person with 1 bag. Masks are required on the ferry.
After a short 15 min ferry, you’ll arrive in Cruz Bay, St. John. This is the hub of the island, where the majority of restaurants, shops and rental options are located. It’s a quaint little town of about 4,500 locals and easy to get around by walking. Parking is limited, however, so be prepared to pay if you are in town. There are a few options for brunch, as well as, several lunch options easy to walk-in and get a table. However, for dinner, it’s best to have a reservation. Must try restaurants are 1864 The Restaurant and The Lime Inn. I cannot say enough good things about either.
If you are planning to do any exploring on the island, you have a couple of options. You can taxi to some of the more popular beaches that have food and rentals located on-site and plan to spend the day, or you can rent a vehicle (I highly recommend a Jeep due to steep, winding roads). We wanted the freedom to explore on our own terms, so we rented a 2 door Jeep. It was nice to be able to leave our snorkel gear, ice chest, beach chairs etc. in the back every night instead of having to haul it in and out from our room.
The Beaches
Honeymoon Beach is about a 10 min drive from Cruz Bay and is a great spot for a day trip. They have a beach bar and water sports hut for rentals. You have to shuttle to the beach as it’s off the main road quite a ways. The R/T shuttle is $10/person, but you can purchase an all-day pass for $49/person which gives you use of the paddle boards, kayaks, snorkel equipment, beach chairs, and more. Snorkeling was great off the beach; we saw several stingrays and crabs.
Trunk Bay is the most photographed beach in the world and can get quite busy/crowded by noon or later. I highly recommend arriving early. This is another beach that offers snorkel gear for rent, has a beach bar and some other amenities. I loved the small island off shore that is easily accessible for snorkeling. We saw an eel and tons of fish.
Cinnamon Bay was my favorite beach. The water was calm, the snorkeling was fantastic and the views were incredible. There is a beach bar but it was under construction during our time on the island.
The last beach I’ll mention is Maho Bay. They have a beach bar, and water sports rentals just across the street from the beach, but the best part about Maho Bay is the sea turtles. This bay has a lot of sea grass, and the water is a little murkier than others which makes it prime feeding grounds for sea turtles; we saw 4-5 turtles. So fascinating!
Now, let’s talk about accommodations. As I said before, St. John is only about 20 square miles, and on top of that it’s 60% national park that cannot be developed for tourism. Thus, your options for staying on the island are limited. But while I was there, I was able to visit and tour a few locations offering budget and more luxurious options.
Hotel Cruz Bay
This boutique property is owned and operated by our hosts Dave and Denise. They bought the building that is now Hotel Cruz Bay and renovated it after getting married on the island and having trouble finding affordable options for their guests. This small hotel is about 2 blocks from the ferry dock and centrally located in Cruz Bay, easy for dining and shopping. There are a few different room categories including standard, standard with French balcony, standard with cathedral ceilings, and a penthouse suite. They are basic, clean rooms to call a home base for your adventures on the island. They also offer amenities such as grab and go breakfast and coffee and ice chests for guest use during the day.
The Suite on the Beach is the bottom half of a private residence (Dave and Denise’s home) that is rented out. The house is located in Peter Bay, and you get access to the private beach with lounge chairs. The 1 bedroom suite comes with a full kitchen, beach towels, ice chest, ice maker, and more. We had everything we needed, and the quiet, private accommodations couldn’t be matched.
The Hills St. John
This 11 building, 22 unit villa property was a surprise. High up in the hills overlooking Cruz Bay, this property offers 2, 3 and 4 bedroom villas in a gated community. Some offer private pools, but the property has a community pool, as well. There is a clubhouse with a grill and in-house chef that is open daily for food and drinks orders, a pool table, big screen and a community patio area for weddings, receptions, parties, etc. Each villa has a full kitchen, a grill on the patio/balcony, and ice chests, beach chairs, and beach towels are included for guest use. Once booked, guests have the opportunity to order ready to heat family style dinners prepared by the chef that will be waiting in their refrigerator on arrival.
The Westin St. John Resort Villas
While I wasn’t able to tour this property due to Covid restrictions, I feel that it’s worth mentioning. The Westin sits beachfront in Great Cruz Bay and offers family condos and villas with familiar amenities including a spa, resort style pool and fitness center. They have a private ferry (additional fees apply) that takes you directly to the resort, a car rental company on-site, and taxis are at the ready for transfers to and from popular beaches at a fixed rate. Since I didn’t get a tour of the property, here is a post with some detailed pictures and good information: https://thepointsguy.com/reviews/westin-st-john-resort-villas/
If you like to explore and sight see, St. John is the place to visit. There is so much to do and see, and I felt safe the entire trip wherever we ventured. I’d love to send you!
